Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Mind Surfing Brittany

On our recent trip to Brittany the waves were not exactly epic, but I had a few surfs on the more exposed beaches that made the most of any available summer swell.  What was lacking in wave quality was made up for by the beautiful backdrop of the dunes, beaches, and cliffs.  The waves were actually perfect for relaxed sessions on a longboard.  There were only a few other surfers out, which means plenty of waves for everyone, and laid back 'vibes' in the water. In short... good times!

In surfing, just as in skateboarding and other board sports, you have a preferred stance; with either your left or right foot forward, which makes you either a 'natural foot' or a 'goofy foot' respectively.  If the waves aren't too challenging it can be fun to 'switch' things up a bit, by surfing with the opposite stance. This can feel really weird and uncomfortable at first (and you will fall off), but if you persevere it can start to feel just as normal as your usual stance, and may even have some handy added health benefits.

"Make your learning fun".  That's what I say.  In fact it turns out that the whole right/left brain model is way too simplistic for the many and varied ways our brains work.

Despite our lazy habits of thinking in simple up/down/left/right/black/white ways we can grow new brain cells at any age; can learn new tasks at any age, including learning to surf, or even to surf with the 'wrong foot' forward.  All we need is to want to do it, and to believe we can do it.  In the photos above I am surfing with my 'wrong' foot forward, and yet it now feels just as good as surfing with my right foot forward... goofy footer that I am.  Sometimes it's fun to mix things up and keep yourself on your toes!  

For me just going to France was a little bit outside of my comfort zone, due to my preconceived ideas about what I thought it 'would' be like.  Okay, I admit it now, Scooby was right and France is a beautiful country, especially the bits that are just like Cornwall!  

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