Sunday, 27 October 2013

Zorba's Reef - A Rare Sight

The Goose is the rock that sits a quarter of a mile out to sea from the beach (at high tide).  The waves normally start breaking well after they pass The Goose, even at low tide.  Not today though.  The winds are building and the swell is increasing and as a result we are seeing the rare sight of waves breaking before the island of rock that is The Goose.  This is a 'mysto' (mythical) big wave surfing spot called Zorba's Reef and the few nutters who are willing to ride it are waiting for that rare day when all the conditions align.  Today, although it showed its hand,  the wind was far too strong and from the wrong direction to even contemplate trying to ride it.  It might not look like it but the wave you see in the distance is higher than a three storey house.
It is not a day to be out surfing on the main beaches but that didn't stop Phil from trying to find somewhere with enough shelter and size to make it worthwhile.  A trip to the south coast found waves that were either too small or too messy in Phil's normal 'go to' places in these stormy conditions.  In this age of information technology sometimes you still have to travel to the 'off-line' out of the way places to try and find the treasures you seek and to know for sure.  On this occasion he was not successful but it's only the start of the Autumn and Winter swells and many more trips will be made.

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